There isn’t much room for pottery in the fast-paced modern world but for the residents of Phu Lang ceramic village, their products are proving not only popular but highly lucrative.
Phu Lang is a must-see for tourists in the region, not least because of its natural surroundings. The village sits at the foot of the majestic Son Mountain on the banks of the Cau River, only 18km northeast of Bac Ninh Town along Highway 18.
Set apart from its spectacular scenery, Phu Lang Village is a beauty spot in its own right. The collection of houses glint with green-moss tiles, and the village roads are lined with a medley of ceramic goods propped against the shop fronts. In the village itself tourists can choose from ready-made clay creations and also have the opportunity to make something themselves. In the words of one foreign visitor, the village is a good place not only because you can meet and make friends with the locals and make original gifts for friends and relatives, but it’s also "a very good place to relax".
Phu Lang is the last survivor of an old pottery village triangle. Although Bat Trang still produces ceramics, the village has been sucked into the suburbs of Ha Noi as a commune of Gia Lam. The third village, Tho Ha, in Bac Giang Province, has also bent under the pressures of development and industrialisation.
But it wasn’t simply through choice that Phu Lang was able to stay true to tradition as location again played a role in providing residents with easy access to the fundamental raw materials of their trade; water, firewood and clay. Of course, Phu Langpottery is defined by the brown colour and specific texture of the raw clay found in the region. But the villagers have a few extra techniques up their sleeves to differentiate their produce from others in the area.
Pots are baked in kilns at initial temperatures of 600 degrees centigrade rising gradually to around 1,200oC. Once the clay has cooled, potters add their trademark coat of thick eelskin enamel that gives the brown clay an original yellow tint.
Constant production over the centuries has meant that some of the products the village produce are literally museam pieces. Foremost in this case are the vilage’s traditional incense burners used and favoured in the Le (1428-1788) and Mac (1527-1677) dynasties. Examples of these are on display at the Vietnamese Museum of History. It is significant that such a symbol of ancient tradition and culture should survive the aggressive competitiveness of the modern world. And when talking to the locals it seems the secret to success lies not only in artistic talent but also astute business skills.
Locals attribute the popularity of pottery from Phu Lang to sustained durability and of course – money. "We can’t be beaten on price", one local resident says enthusiastically, admitting that friendly rivalry with products from Bat Trang keeps prices low.
But its not all about the price tag. For alongside practical use locals eagerly put their success down to a special artistic edge, pointing to the traditional Phu Lang water jug as proof of their long-standing reputation.
There is also a heavy air of entrepeneurialsim with trade increasing between Phu Lang and other communities and markets in northern and coastal provinces, spreading recently to find favour in the south. Innovation is also key as the village caters for little tapped-into religious demand for pots and jars.
In the dry season from the 9th lunar month to the end of the lunar year for example, there is a large market for terra-cotta coffins because they preserve well and are easy to bury.
For Phu Lang now, business in the high season is booming and the market is heaving with prospective customers.
Some pictures about Phu Lang pottery village:
Phu Lang is a must-see for tourists in the region, not least because of its natural surroundings. The village sits at the foot of the majestic Son Mountain on the banks of the Cau River, only 18km northeast of Bac Ninh Town along Highway 18.
Set apart from its spectacular scenery, Phu Lang Village is a beauty spot in its own right. The collection of houses glint with green-moss tiles, and the village roads are lined with a medley of ceramic goods propped against the shop fronts. In the village itself tourists can choose from ready-made clay creations and also have the opportunity to make something themselves. In the words of one foreign visitor, the village is a good place not only because you can meet and make friends with the locals and make original gifts for friends and relatives, but it’s also "a very good place to relax".
Phu Lang is the last survivor of an old pottery village triangle. Although Bat Trang still produces ceramics, the village has been sucked into the suburbs of Ha Noi as a commune of Gia Lam. The third village, Tho Ha, in Bac Giang Province, has also bent under the pressures of development and industrialisation.
But it wasn’t simply through choice that Phu Lang was able to stay true to tradition as location again played a role in providing residents with easy access to the fundamental raw materials of their trade; water, firewood and clay. Of course, Phu Langpottery is defined by the brown colour and specific texture of the raw clay found in the region. But the villagers have a few extra techniques up their sleeves to differentiate their produce from others in the area.
Pots are baked in kilns at initial temperatures of 600 degrees centigrade rising gradually to around 1,200oC. Once the clay has cooled, potters add their trademark coat of thick eelskin enamel that gives the brown clay an original yellow tint.
Constant production over the centuries has meant that some of the products the village produce are literally museam pieces. Foremost in this case are the vilage’s traditional incense burners used and favoured in the Le (1428-1788) and Mac (1527-1677) dynasties. Examples of these are on display at the Vietnamese Museum of History. It is significant that such a symbol of ancient tradition and culture should survive the aggressive competitiveness of the modern world. And when talking to the locals it seems the secret to success lies not only in artistic talent but also astute business skills.
Locals attribute the popularity of pottery from Phu Lang to sustained durability and of course – money. "We can’t be beaten on price", one local resident says enthusiastically, admitting that friendly rivalry with products from Bat Trang keeps prices low.
But its not all about the price tag. For alongside practical use locals eagerly put their success down to a special artistic edge, pointing to the traditional Phu Lang water jug as proof of their long-standing reputation.
There is also a heavy air of entrepeneurialsim with trade increasing between Phu Lang and other communities and markets in northern and coastal provinces, spreading recently to find favour in the south. Innovation is also key as the village caters for little tapped-into religious demand for pots and jars.
In the dry season from the 9th lunar month to the end of the lunar year for example, there is a large market for terra-cotta coffins because they preserve well and are easy to bury.
For Phu Lang now, business in the high season is booming and the market is heaving with prospective customers.
Some pictures about Phu Lang pottery village:
Source: VNE/VNS
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