16 Sept 2008

Sapa street grills

Sapa’s bewitching beauty and ethnic mountain groups make it one of Vietnam’s favorite tourist haunts.

On chilly northwestern evenings, there’s nothing like sitting down on Sapa’s grilled food street with a bowl of strong Bac Ha wine and a plate of fragrant grilled food.

The 100 meter stretch of grills is on Ham Rong Street, in the shadow of an old stone church, near the bustling Western backpackers’ quarter.

The stalls open at dusk. Here, locals traditionally sold the charcoal grilled dishes in small baskets, but a variety of new stalls have appeared.

The dishes are spiced and prepared differently, so you can mix and match.

Aside from the common favorites such as corn, sweet potatoes, cassavas, birds and chicken, you can enjoy other dishes, from grilled sour tofu and grilled round rice cake with tiny shrimps to grilled chicken eggs and grilled violet sugarcane.

Heo cap nach (carried-under-the-armpit pig) is the most famous item on the menu.

The meaning of the name is a little strange but easily explained: ethnic people raise their pigs freerange and carry them to market under their arm to ensure the pig’s meat is sweet and tender.

Although the majority of customers are tourists, the grill street continues to be a meeting place for locals because of its friendly and cozy atmosphere, delicious and diverse foods, and reasonable prices, VND3,000-10,000 (US$0.20-0.60) per dish.

Sellers accept both Vietnamese and American money.

Sapa has luxury restaurants that serve foreign and Vietnamese cuisines.

Many tourists, however, prefer the dimly lit stalls, as a way, perhaps, to reveal the hidden corners of their mind when in a foreign land.

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