In the past year, it seems beauty standards in Viet Nam have received a makeover. In urban areas, men are increasingly playing with earrings, hair dye and shirt styles and fabrics, while women are cropping their hair shorter and donning more "masculine" attire. And the trend is most prevalent amongst the young.In unisex fashion clothing for men and women can draw from the same materials. Unisex watches lack the bulk associated with watches geared for men or the ornate, delicate features often found on watches marketed for women. Unisex haircuts mean anything goes. Girls can wear skirts layered over pants. Men wear long necklaces with pendants and carry handbags.
Though still relatively new and jarring for many, the history of fashion suggests that in a few years this trend will be no more eyebrow raising than women donning blue jeans, men dispensing with powdered wigs, women sporting baseball caps or men’s pants growing repeatedly more and less fitted.
Unisex fashion has found its niche in big cities and is capitalising on the interest of young consumers. In Ha Noi, I’ve recently noticed three stores specifically marketing unisex attire, one at 163 Hang Bac Street, another at 54 Hang Cot Street and the last at 166 Ba Trieu Street. A supporter of the new trend, Nguyen Manh Hoang owns two of these shops. According to him, unisex fashion comfortably blurs constructed gender boundaries, so both sexes can comfortably wear what they want.
The origin of this increasing collapse of gendered fashion is difficult to pinpoint. One could look at film, at Marlene Dietrich in a tuxedo, or at punk history with women with shaved heads clad in chain wallets, torn jeans and combat boots or hair metal videos where men wear spandex, neon and makeup. One could look at Harajuku fashion from Japan or argue that silk shirts have been in for men in Europe for what feels like forever.
No matter when or where or how it began this particular form of unisex style has grabbed the interest of Vietnamese city youth thanks largely to television, film, internet and advertisement exposure. For example, the androgynous men in popular South Korea films have made a strong impression, people like Lee Jun ki in My Girl with his delicate features, long hair and flawless feminine skin.
Local idols are also doing their part. In the new CD Bup Be Con Trai (Boy Doll), singer Thanh Thao has cast herself in the image of a boy. Model Thuy Vinh in her latest photos opts for a more unisex look. Phuong Uyen, the young singer-musician takes a "tomboy" approach in pricey, masculine picks.
More than just following their idols, Hoang argues that many young women find strength and drive in this newfound flexibility, while men embrace a softer, more subtle and elegant look.
"Unisex clothing can make women look stronger, and men sweeter," he says.
Reflecting personalities
Many teenagers argue accordingly that such fashion flexibility allows them to more accurately portray the nuances of their personalities. Thanh Nam, an 18-year-old boy who has recently adopted unisex fashion often faces the scorn of his elders.
"Why should men and women still dress the same way as they did 50 years ago?" Nam reasons.
"Why must men look strong and worn? Why should women look gentle and modest? Through style, I want to stand out in the crowd and to show I am not like others."
Vu Dinh Quyet, a salesperson at Hoang’s shop, says "I wear it because I find it beautiful and it suits me."
Quyet says, "Many youngsters come here and choose a pair of pants or a skirt in a unisex style. After that, they combine the items with other styles, and it ends up looking very attractive," he said.
Hoang shops’ most common customers are teenagers, always eager for the new lines, but even some middle-aged men and women have been taken in.
"I chose something for my husband because he liked it," a woman said. "In the shop, I can buy a unisex shirt but wear it with more feminine pants. If someone knows how to combine unisex with other styles, they can have a beautiful look that is not negatively judged by society," she said
Even with prices varying from VND200-300,000, most items are selling.
For the opponents of unisex fashion, there is good and bad news. The good news is, that like most trends, this one will pass. However, that is not to say unisex fashion will disppear but rather will continue changing. After all, it was not so long ago that in certain areas some men wore stockings and powdered their faces and women had to struggle and strut in uncomfortable corsets and crinoline.
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